Rolex Explorer II Buying Guide: 226570, Polar vs. Black, 16570 & 216570
Compare the current 42 mm Explorer II with the most important discontinued generations, including Polar and black dials, calibre changes, bracelet evolution, condition and real-world fit.
Reviewed by the Superlative Watch Co. Buying Desk · Updated July 17, 2026
Current Explorer II 226570
The current Explorer II is a 42 mm Oystersteel Professional watch with a fixed 24-hour bezel, date, independent local-hour adjustment and an additional orange 24-hour hand. It uses calibre 3285, offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve and is water-resistant to 100 metres.
| Specification | Current 226570 | Buyer implication |
|---|---|---|
| Case | 42 mm Oystersteel | Substantial wrist presence; try it rather than assuming diameter alone. |
| Movement | Calibre 3285 | Independent local hour, GMT display and modern reserve. |
| Bezel | Fixed engraved 24-hour bezel | Highly legible but exposed to scratches and refinishing. |
| Dials | White “Polar” or black | The central style and market decision. |
| Water resistance | 100 metres | Strong everyday protection, but not a substitute for Sea-Dweller depth capability. |
Polar vs. black dial
| Factor | Polar white | Black |
|---|---|---|
| Visual identity | The signature modern Explorer II look | More conventional Rolex Professional styling |
| Perceived size | Appears larger and brighter | Looks visually tighter on the wrist |
| Legibility | Strong contrast with black surrounds | Strong contrast with white luminous markers |
| Collector shorthand | Frequently searched as “Polar” | Usually described by dial color and reference |
| Best fit | Buyer who wants maximum distinction | Buyer who wants understatement and versatility |
Neither dial is mechanically superior. Buy the one that works with your wardrobe, wrist and collection. On older Polar examples, inspect the dial and hands carefully because service components and aging can materially affect collector preference.
Explorer II generations
| Reference | Era and identity | Why buyers consider it |
|---|---|---|
| 1655 | Original vintage Explorer II | Historic “Freccione” design; originality and condition are specialist concerns. |
| 16550 | Transitional generation | Important dial and movement transition; some cream-dial examples command special attention. |
| 16570 | Long-running 40 mm generation | Slimer and lighter than modern 42 mm versions; tritium, Swiss-only and later lume variants differ. |
| 216570 | First 42 mm generation | Introduced the large modern case and orange 24-hour hand. |
| 226570 | Current 42 mm generation | Calibre 3285, revised case/bracelet details and current warranty context. |
226570 vs. 216570 vs. 16570
| Priority | Best starting point | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Newest movement and current production | 226570 | Current calibre, warranty context and modern finishing. |
| Modern 42 mm value | 216570 | Similar large-format character with an earlier calibre and generation. |
| Compact neo-vintage wear | 16570 | 40 mm proportions and a lighter overall feel. |
| Historic collecting | 1655 or selected 16550 | Greater rarity and originality sensitivity. |
On discontinued references, price should reflect actual condition, service history, bracelet, dial and accessories—not merely reference number or the word “Polar.”
Fit and ownership
The 42 mm Explorer II is broad and visually flat compared with many rotating-bezel sport watches. The steel bezel can make the dial look expansive, and the white dial increases that effect. Buyers with smaller wrists should compare lug placement and bracelet fit, not just case diameter.
- Confirm full bracelet length and the condition of the Oysterlock clasp.
- Inspect the fixed steel bezel for dents, deep scratches and over-refinishing.
- Test independent local-hour adjustment and date advancement.
- Ask about service parts, especially on 16570 and earlier examples.
- Verify dial and handset by production period.
- Request timekeeping and pressure-test information where appropriate.
Explorer II FAQs
Is Polar or black more desirable?
Polar is the more distinctive modern identity, while black is more understated. Market demand can differ, but condition, reference and price paid matter more than a blanket rule.
Is Explorer II a GMT watch?
Yes. The independent local-hour hand and 24-hour hand allow a second time zone. The bezel is fixed, unlike GMT-Master II.
Is 226570 too large?
It is a substantial 42 mm watch. Wrist shape, dial color and bracelet fit determine whether it feels appropriate.
Why buy 16570?
It offers 40 mm neo-vintage proportions, broad production variety and a lighter wrist experience than current 42 mm models.
What is the difference between 216570 and 226570?
Both are 42 mm, but 226570 uses calibre 3285 and includes later case, bracelet and dial-detail revisions.
Can Superlative Watch Co. source a specific generation?
Yes. Buyers may request exact reference, dial, year, lume type, condition, service history and complete-set requirements.
Research and disclosure: Current specifications were checked against official Rolex Explorer II information. Historical, condition and market guidance reflects Superlative Watch Co. Buying Desk observation and should be verified for the individual watch. Superlative Watch Co. is independent and not affiliated with or authorized by Rolex S.A.