Patek Philippe Aquanaut
A reference-level guide to the 5167, 5168, 5164 Travel Time, 5968 Chronograph and 5261 Annual Calendar—built to connect specification, movement, fit, strap condition and current inventory.
Five Aquanaut families, five different decisions
The Aquanaut is not one watch with different colors. Case scale, metal, complication, movement architecture and strap geometry change meaningfully across the collection.
Time, date and the original modern proportion
The 40.8 mm 5167 is the cleanest expression of the collection. The steel 5167A is the benchmark; the rose-gold 5167R adds weight and warmth without adding a complication.
42.2 mm and white-gold presence
The 5168 preserves the time-and-date layout while enlarging the case to 42.2 mm. Blue and khaki-green executions make it the clearest route for buyers who want more wrist presence.
Local and home time
The 5164 uses discreet pushers and a second hour hand to make the Aquanaut a true travel watch. Local and home day/night indicators reduce ambiguity across time zones.
Sport timing, Patek execution
The 5968 adds a flyback chronograph with central seconds and a 60-minute counter. At 42.2 mm, it is visually and mechanically the most assertive core Aquanaut.
Calendar intelligence and moon phases
The 39.9 mm 5261R combines the Aquanaut Luce design language with an annual calendar and moon phases. It normally needs one calendar correction per year if kept running.
| Family | Representative reference | Case | Thickness | Calibre | Primary function | Current rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5167 | 5167A-001 | Steel · 40.8 mm | 8.1 mm | 26-330 S C | Time and date | 30 m |
| 5168 | 5168G-010 | White gold · 42.2 mm | 8.25 mm | 26-330 S C | Time and date | 30 m |
| 5164 | 5164G-001 | White gold · 40.8 mm | 10.2 mm | 26-330 S C FUS | Travel Time and date | 30 m |
| 5968 | 5968G-010 | White gold · 42.2 mm | 11.9 mm | CH 28-520 C | Flyback chronograph | 30 m |
| 5261 | 5261R-001 | Rose gold · 39.9 mm | 10.94 mm | 26-330 S QA LU | Annual calendar and moon phases | 30 m |
Why the 30 m figure matters: current Patek Philippe product pages are the controlling source for current specifications. Historical technical sheets and third-party databases may retain legacy 100 m or 120 m ratings for earlier executions. A rating is not a substitute for a current pressure test, fresh seals or seller confirmation.
“Tropical” strap means composite strap—not a universal fit
Collectors commonly say “Tropical strap,” while Patek Philippe’s current specification language is composite material strap. The strap’s embossed surface belongs to the Aquanaut’s visual identity, but its cut-to-size construction makes condition and remaining length commercially important.
Four calibres explain the modern collection
The complication is visible on the dial; the movement architecture explains how each Aquanaut is intended to be used. Scroll to compare the calibre families.
Calibre 26-330 S C
Self-winding time-and-date movement with central seconds. It is the clean mechanical center of the current time-only Aquanaut families.
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Calibre 26-330 S C FUS
Adds local and home time, separate day/night indications and a local-date display without abandoning the Aquanaut’s compact wearing profile.
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Calibre CH 28-520 C
An automatic flyback chronograph with vertical disc clutch, central chronograph seconds and a 60-minute counter designed for immediate legibility.
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Calibre 26-330 S QA LU
Combines self-winding architecture with day, date, month and moon-phase indications; when continuously running, it normally needs correction only after February.
View a watch with this movement →Compare the reference families on actual watch pages
Open each watch listing to review its availability, price, condition and included set.
Aquanaut retail-to-market premium dataset
These figures compare U.S.-dollar manufacturer retail prices with WatchCharts secondary-market estimates captured July 23–25, 2026. They illustrate reference-specific scarcity and demand; they do not predict what any watch will be worth next.
| Reference | Retail price | Market estimate | Premium to retail |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5167A | $27,257 | $68,018 | +149.5% |
| 5167R | $53,514 | ≈$96,538 | ≈+80.4% |
| 5168G-001 | $57,890 | $94,665 | +63.5% |
| 5164G | $71,643 | ≈$149,817 | ≈+109.1% |
| 5164R | $71,643 | $117,747 | +64.4% |
| 5968A | $61,766 | $134,078 | +117.1% |
| 5968G | $88,898 | ≈$120,430 | ≈+35.5% |
| 5968R | $88,898 | ≈$144,508 | ≈+62.6% |
| 5261R | $72,394 | ≈$163,772 | ≈+126.2% |
Defensible interpretation: multiple Aquanaut references traded materially above retail in mid-2026, and the collection showed a strong 2025–2026 recovery after roughly three years of broader secondary-market decline. The data does not support a blanket claim that Aquanauts always appreciate. Condition, delivery set, production status, strap length, liquidity and entry price can materially change an owner’s result.
Choose the function first, then the individual watch
A strong Aquanaut purchase begins with the right reference family. Only then should condition, documentation, strap fit, service history and price determine the exact watch.
5167
The most direct route to the Aquanaut shape, embossed dial and composite-strap experience. Compare steel versus rose gold and inspect strap fit carefully.
5168G
The 42.2 mm case brings more presence without chronograph thickness. White gold feels materially different from steel despite the restrained appearance.
5164
Local/home time is commercially and practically useful. Confirm correct pusher operation, synchronized displays and calendar changeover.
5968
The flyback chronograph is the collection’s most active complication. Evaluate pusher feel, reset alignment, case thickness and reference-specific market spread.
5261R
The annual calendar adds high-horology function while retaining Aquanaut design codes. Confirm corrector operation and every calendar indication.
Exact-watch review
Match the reference, dial, strap, clasp, papers and serial-era details; then evaluate polish, service, completeness, seller terms and insured delivery.
Reference, movement, strap and market FAQ
What is the difference between the Aquanaut 5167 and 5168?
The 5167 is the core time-and-date Aquanaut at 40.8 mm, while the 5168 is the larger 42.2 mm white-gold interpretation. Both current families use the self-winding calibre 26-330 S C; metal, scale, dial and strap color create the principal ownership differences.
Which Aquanaut is designed for travel?
The 5164 Travel Time is the purpose-built travel model. Its calibre 26-330 S C FUS displays local and home time, day/night information and a date coordinated with local time, making it the most functionally direct Aquanaut for frequent travelers.
Which Aquanaut is a chronograph?
The 5968 is the Aquanaut chronograph family. It uses the automatic flyback calibre CH 28-520 C, combining central chronograph seconds with an easy-to-read 60-minute counter. Steel, white-gold and rose-gold executions have distinct market profiles.
What is special about the Aquanaut 5261R?
The 5261R brings Patek Philippe’s patented annual-calendar logic and moon phases into the Aquanaut Luce format. If kept running, an annual calendar recognizes 30- and 31-day months and normally needs one calendar correction each year, at the end of February.
What does Tropical strap mean on a Patek Philippe Aquanaut?
Tropical is established collector and dealer shorthand for the Aquanaut’s water-resistant sport strap. Patek Philippe’s current product language is composite material strap. Because the strap is cut to size, buyers should confirm remaining length, clasp fit and whether an uncut or replacement strap is included.
How water resistant is a current Patek Philippe Aquanaut?
Patek Philippe’s current manufacturer pages specify 30 meters of water resistance for the current 5167, 5168, 5164, 5968 and 5261 references discussed here. Historical documents and third-party databases can show earlier ratings, so verify the exact reference, production period, seals and pressure-test status before water exposure.
Does an Aquanaut market premium mean it will appreciate?
No. A premium is a dated comparison between an estimated secondary-market price and manufacturer retail price; it is not a forecast. Aquanaut prices have risen and fallen, and the value of an individual watch depends on reference, condition, set completeness, strap length, service history, geography and transaction terms.
Independent dealer disclosure: Superlative Watch Co. is an independent luxury-watch dealer and is not affiliated with, sponsored by or an authorized retailer of Patek Philippe. Manufacturer specifications, production status and retail prices can change. Inventory cards link to individual individual product pages, where availability, condition, price and transaction terms are controlled. Market data is informational and is not investment, appraisal or financial advice.
